Weeds Control Without Poisons Pdf

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As a garden coach, I’m often asked if there are any organic ways of getting rid of weeds that actually work. Nobody wants to spray harmful chemicals in their garden. The good news is that there are a lot of organic alternatives. The bad news is, some organic techniques can require an up-front time investment, and organic weed sprays can be pricier than chemical sprays. Still, if you have children or pets, like to walk around barefoot, or simply want to be a good steward of the earth, it’s worth a little extra effort to take care of the weeds in a sustainable way.

How to remove weeds within existing garden bedsWeeding by hand In garden beds where there are plants you like growing close-by, pulling weeds by hand is simply the best method of control. You don’t need to worry about herbicide drift (even organic herbicide drift) hitting your desirable plants, or making your soil inhospitable as with chemical weed sprays.Also? There’re no dead weeds left behind.

Any other method, you still need to come back and pull the dead weed out, or be patient and wait for it to break down and disappear on its own, which can take between a week and a year depending on how sturdy the weed was.With a single great tool like the (I love the lightweight stainless steel version), you can get dandelions’ long taproots with the same tool you use for other weeds. No-bend weeding using a hoeIf you don’t wish to bend, you can use a, or a. These types of hoe work by either dislodging baby weeds so that their roots are exposed and they bake in the summer sunshine, or by separating the young weeds’ foliage from the roots so that the plant can’t photosynthesize.

It doesn’t kill everything on the first try, but works pretty well if you do it regularly and catch them when they’re tiny.Spraying organic herbicides for natural weed controlThere are an increasing number of effective organic herbicides on the market, and most of them work by burning off the waxy cuticle that protects the plants’ cells from losing water. This means you see nearly immediate results.

The nice thing about organic herbicides is that they only kill things that get their foliage coated with it like, so if you have bulbs underground, or tree roots nearby, you’re still safe, unlike with some traditional chemical herbicides.The bad thing is that if you aren’t careful, it’s easy to spray your prized perennials with it, too. This is true for chemical herbicides as well.

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You can avoid this by spraying in the morning before the wind acts up, and by using a cardboard tube or paper cup with a hole cut in the bottom. Simply set your spray nozzle in the hole in the bottom of the cup, set the rim of the cup over your weed, and spray! All the drift hits the inside of your cup.(I go into greater detail on which organic sprays are the best for each situation, and how to use them most effectively in my.)Spraying or injecting WeedPharm (20% acetic acid vinegar spray)I’ve found WeedPharm extremely effective in my own tests. It’s the only food-grade herbicide currently on the market.

It’s 20% acetic acid (as opposed to the 5% acetic acid in household vinegar), and it works the same way as the other organic herbicide sprays – by burning the waxy cuticle off above-ground portions of the plant.It can also be injected into the taproots of dandelions or the base of the plant using a syringe (the manufacturer recommends a 40cc syringe without a needle, like you’d use to give your cat liquid medicines). I like the first method of manual removal. I use a, um, erm, I guess I don’t even know what it’s called; I think weeder (the long narrow blade with a forked end).

In fact, I use that for a million things. Sometimes I even use a trowel to weed. I’ve heard of the hori-hori but not seen it think I may invest in it because it seems to combine the pointed sharpness of the weeder with the nice leverage of the wider blade of the trowel. Plus, it just looks serious, you know?! Also, I love the idea of weed torches because fire is just good, but I’ve not used them, either.

When I have had to use Roundup (for poison ivy and buckthorn) I either paint it on with a sponge edging tool or, if spraying, I make a shield out of an opened cardboard bov to protect nearby plants.Monica’s last blog post. I know Roundup is non-organic (and I only use it for invasive or poisonous plants) but it DOES break down in the soil VERY quickly–in under 24 hours. This has been verified by several staff members of Ann Arbor’s Natural Area Preservation and by several conservation stewards I know. In fact, if you mix the concentrate with water you need to use it fairly quickly or the active ingredient breaks down.(I don’t remember the exact time frame, but I think it’s a few days.

Am checking)Monica’s last blog post. There are numerous studies showing Roundup to be incredibly unsafe (carcinogenic, mutagenic, respiratory irratant, etc.) The wikipedia article for glyphosate has numerous citations to back that up. It is not always the glyphosate itself that causes the problems but the surfactants and other “inactive” ingredients that are used in conjunction with the glyphosate, unfortunately the studies generally focus only on glyphosate and not the other ingredients that are used with it.In addition, the FDA has twice found that scientific studies that were commissioned by Monsanto have been falsified to support Monsanto’s claim. (US EPA Communications and Public Affairs 1991 Press Advisory. EPA lists crops associated with pesticides for which residue and environmental fate studies were allegedly manipulated. Washington DC Mar 29)One of the most famous studies by Williams, Munro, et al.

Is highly criticized since Munro’s company Cantox Health Sciences is known for whitewashing the toxic effects of Agent Orange, another Monsanto product.(Dominion 2007). Monica, what fantastic tips and insights. I really appreciate your input.I too have heard from reputable sources that Roundup (or at least the active ingredient in some of their simpler products, glyphosate) breaks down quickly in the soil.There are two things that worry me about Roundup. One is that they have a lot of products besides the simple glyphosate-only spray, and some of them contain chemicals like diquat that I really don’t feel comfortable with. Hi Genevieve, thanks for the round up of week removal techniques. I have the old heavy hori hori, it is my go to tool for everything that can be done by a hand tool.

I pull my weeds by hand, hopefully before they set seed. As the plants have filled in the week problem has lessened. Intensive close together planting really makes weeds struggle, they get no light. I will check the bottle ingredients on the round up.

I do use that on the paving where the weeds cannot be pulled. We have weeds and desirable plants growing where the curbing meets the street. Just goes to show the power of seeds.FrancesFrances’s last blog post.

Please reconsider your dandelions – the roots of the dandelion are the most beneficial liver cleanser known to mankind – IF ORGANIC.Dandelion roots will grown down a few inches, and the take a sharp turn to the (in California), left.Dig as much as you can of the root, wash it, dry it slowly in a low temo. Oven – and you have a natural liver cleanser. (Look it up yourself).One note of caution – milk weed and dandelion can look the same – IF YOU PICK A LEAF AND IT MILKS – DO NOT USE IT – IT IS MILK WEED WHICH IS POISONOUS.No milk – it is a dandelion. Please do your homework first. It is a very beneficial medicinal herb. Shirley, I really wish I knew, but I don’t know that anyone could say that with complete certainty.

How fast roundup breaks down has to do, I think, with temperature, how much moisture, etc. This is why I go organic whenever possible. To speed the process, I’d remove the dead weeds that are there and wash the area with water a few times to try to get the residue off. Maybe your local agriculture extension office would be able to give you some scientific literature on it and interpret that literature for your area? Was looking for the vinegar recipe and found it. I have an acre of weeds and wish to grow an organic veggie garden.

There is also an huge grove of blackberries that isn’t producing very much fruit so I have chosen to cut it back and “start”over with a smaller hedge. I trust this will work and not be to labor intensive. I will use a sprayer with a controllable nozzles. I have also found that cardboard is a great way to kill off the unwanted grass and weeds as I use it to prepare my yard for “no dig” raised beds. My yard dirt is hard as clay where the acre dirt is soft and doable for growing after I control the weeds.

Plant veggies not lawns that you have to mow.happy summer. I WILL NEVER, NOT EVER use Roundup EVER again! Two years ago I tried using it on my flower bed because the instructions stated “COMPLETELY SAFE TO USE AROUND AND IN EXISTING PLANT and FLOWER BEDS”, well that WAS AN OUTRIGHT LIE, I followed the instructions thinking it would be 100% perfectly safe around all my Roses, Marigolds, Dianthus, Impatiens and a few other flowers I don’t recall, well RoundUp did it’s job all right, but it DESTROYED and KILLED EVERY SINGLE FLOWER in my “Pond/Prayer Garden”.

Over $500.00 worth of flowers ruined thanks to their LYING INSTRUCTIONS on the bottle stating “COMPLETELY SAFE TO USE IN FLOWER BEDS. If I could have sued RoundUp for my plant/flower loss I probably would have.Now I FLAT REFUSE to use anything in my plant/flower beds other than back breaking hand pulling of the weeds. I hate weeding as much as the next person, but until SOMEONE makes a COMPLETELY SAFE ORGANIC WEED KILLER that isn’t going to wipe out my entire landscape or be hazardous in any way. Shape or form, it’ll be hand weeding only for me. We can put men on the moon, make pacemakers to help patients with heart problems and do all kinds of other miraculous things, but we have yet to master removing ourselves of all these dadburn weeds! Does make on wonder doesn’t it?Clay in Florida. Mali, I’d call out a garden coach, consultant, or contractor and ask for their advice.

There are so man solutions that it’s hard to say what’d be best for you without being at your site and hearing in great detail of your plans for it. Moving soil around with a bobcat often kills mown weeds. Rototilling too. Sod-cutters will remove mown weeds and you can compost them on site then re-use the good soil. Bringing in foreign topsoil isn’t always a good idea but can kill mown weeds if you put 1′ of soil on top of them. WeedPharm spray (you can buy large bottle in my online gardening shop). In every case, you’ll want to put down some variant of landscape fabric/ newspaper/ heavy mulch/ new plants once you’ve got them out because once you churn the soil, more weeds are coming.Just focus on clearing up one area at a time and keep everything else from reseeding by mowing often.

Hope that’s helpful!! I use a half-gallon or gallon milk jug with the top cut a little wider and the bottom removed to direct the spray from the garden sprayer right where I want it and limit over spray. That way I can use the handle to carry it around and not worry about touching the spray from the inside. I prefer to use the half-gallon and then carry it around the yard in a gallon size container so nothing drips from the inside around the yard as I’m walking with it. I had dead spots on the leaves of some plants where it dribbled off the container I used one year.

I can not imagine someone on an organic garden site suggesting that anyone use Roundup. There is clear evidence now that it is still present in soil after THREE years, in my opinion that is not a quick break down. It also kills the microbes in your soil. Please read the info below!Glysophate and SurfactantsGlyphosate is a broad spectrum herbicide and a main active ingredient in Roundup. A surfactant is a chemical that helps glyphosate to penetrate tough plant cells. Both chemicals are toxic to humans and animals. Together, their toxicity increases exponentially.MicroorganismsAccording to Robert Kremer, a microbiologist with the U.S.

Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service, glyphosate changes soil composition and disrupts the normal balance of microorganisms in the soil, leading to an increase in fungal growth and harmful bacteria.NitrogenPlants such as legumes fix nitrogen from the atmosphere into the soil by relying on the beneficial bacteria rhizobia. The glyphosate in Roundup inhibits rhizobia, preventing the natural and necessary addition of nitrogen to the soil.PersistenceThe U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has called the glyphosate in Roundup “extremely persistent” because of its lengthy half life (the time it takes for half of the amount of glyphosate applied to break down). In studies from around the world, glyphosate has been present in the soil up to three years after the initial application. Right on Sean. Thanks for letting people know. Also Monsanto was sued for mislabeling Round Up.

They labeled it as Biodigradable and were sued twice for it. Now they don’t have that on their new containers, but people still think it is safe.

It is also if I am not mistaken themaoist widely used chemical in the world. Which is very sad. I wouldn’t trust anything that company makes. They are only looking to make money and it doesn’t matter who they hurt along the way. I like to use the example of the cigarette companies and how they tried to tell everyone smoking was safe.

This is the same thing with Monsanto. They know their products are harmful, but they won’t admit it. Do some research everyone and make a healthy decision. Round up is not organic weed control.I agree that Glyphosate does not stick around too long but if you read label, then 99% of the contents are called Surfactants.Surfactants help Glyphosate stick around longer. Which is why it works.There have been studies where Glyphosate was reported to cause genetic abnormalities in tadpoles in the ponds nearby where Glyphosate was used along with surfactants.Please educate yourself completely before using a product.

People can say anything they want!Thank you. I discuss this kind of thing in depth in my ebook, but a few quick suggestions – mow kind of low (1.5″), rake sedum out vigorously and thoroughly with a sturdy metal rake (the Garden Shark rake works well), then topdress with 1/2 inch compost and begin mowing lawn in future on a taller setting, preferably 3″. Try Ortho EcoSense organic lawn weed killer which is made of iron (available in US and Canada except California) and try that on any stragglers. And get your lawn healthy and thick enough to out-compete the sedum in future. I wrote about 15 pages covering this type of situation in my ebook, so this is just a few quick thoughts. I hope it’s helpful! Weeds in lawns can be very tough.

In our vegetable gardens, we use thick layers of straw. You still have to pull the occasional weed, but it isn’t terrible. Grow a cover crop in fall (buckwheat, clover, etc). It adds nutrients back into the soil and keeps most weeds from taking seed. In the spring, till it all under and start over.I used to use weedcloth and the straw method works so much better. Plus, it is more aesthetically pleasing.I am definately going to try the vinegar for some areas that are infested with johnson grass.Thank you for the great topic. Oh my goodness everyone who use deadly roundup etc should be ashamed of themselves.

For my veggie garden I use Lucerne for nitrogen and straw to keep the weeds at bay which works fantastic and when the beds lay to rest I will cover them with a layer of straw so come spring the weeds will be minimal. I am going to try the vinegar salt recipe and also I save all my cardboard, newspapers for weed control. If you keep on top of your maintenance there should never be a need to use NASTY, HARMFUL CHEMICALS!!!I live on 5acres in a bush environment and have a lot of outa control weeds but I prioritise and work on small areas at one time and try real hard to keep on top of the weeds but if time gets away you start from scratch.

ROUND UP????#.”#’ jeez that is terrible. I have many gardens and most are planted with perennials. I have a neighbor who has a large field that he refers to as a “wildlife area”. This is in a residential area. He does not mow and considers the weeds as prairie grasses!

I’m having a hard time pulling all the weeds out of my gardens. My question: Are the tall neighboring weeds having this effect on my gardens? Most of the weeds are the type (?) that have a top that when it’s windy the weed seeds are released.

If this is the problem I may have no other choice than to take out my gardens and gardening being my hobby this would be devastating. Garry:I’ve found an effective deterrent for mice and other rodents, in the house and in the yard, is coyote urine. It took a little while to find it (all the garden stores had wonderful contraptions for trapping and killing, but nothing to deter). Found it in the hunting section, where I bought a small spray bottle of “coyote mist” that lasted all season.

The mist was great for spraying around the holes where rodents get into the house, or places you don’t want them. I haven’t tried spraying a whole lawn, but regular applications in some choice locations should give the message “Not Welcome Here.”. Years ago a college botany professor advocated “over-supplying” Borax to kill grass in driveway cracks. Plants do need trace amounts of boron to grow, too much will kill them.Any chance that might work on blackberries?

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This is an unused side yard area, perhaps 20 ft by 6 ft, sloped, on the blind side of the house.Same prof said a heavy application of ammonium sulfate fertilizer under crabapple trees at the right time could make the baby crabapples fall off leaving a cleaner bed area. Would that work on blackberries? Rock salt does it all! If you need a full kill zone, like a gravel path or between stones in a walkway, just lay in the salt.It took about half a dozen bags, but it finally stopped shoots coming off a stubborn locust tree that had been blown over and stump ground.It lays in real nice if you use a board as a straight edge. It makes a clean line (like along fences) because it doesn’t blow around and melts in the rain pretty much straight down in place (unless there is a slope, then the kill tends to bleed, but can be controlled by cutting a mini trench).As a bonus, it acts as an effective slug and snail barrier.Best of all, it is cheap and organic!

Everyone who has a farm or a yard has dealt with weeds, but focusing on the control of weeds without any use of poisons is not something that comes natural to us. Charles Walters is an expert in the field of weeds. This book talks about weeds, but in a very different manner than most. Did you know that different weeds grow in different soil types, and with different soil compositions? Knowing the type of soil you have, the types of weeds that grow in that soil, and what to do about them without Everyone who has a farm or a yard has dealt with weeds, but focusing on the control of weeds without any use of poisons is not something that comes natural to us. Charles Walters is an expert in the field of weeds.

This book talks about weeds, but in a very different manner than most. Did you know that different weeds grow in different soil types, and with different soil compositions? Knowing the type of soil you have, the types of weeds that grow in that soil, and what to do about them without poisons is the whole purpose of the book.Dry humor and wit are included in the knowledgeable read about just what you might want to do to control weeds. It gives you the information you need to make life-long changes in the way you approach weeds and weed control.

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By first informing the reader of the variations of soil conditions that promote weed growth, the author is then able to give you direct information and answers on what to do to change the soil conditions to prevent and get rid of the weeds. All of this without a single poison. Sustainable and eco-friendly advice at the heart of the problem for most people, weeds. Maybe because I expected a boring read, I found this interesting. On the other hand, the author has his own publication so he knows how to write. He takes the viewpoint that weeds can tell you a lot about your soil if you look. I learned that different types of weeds only grow in specific soils, they also, have their own pests that follow them around.

Improving the soil and growing healthy plants is the best prevention to get rid of weeds and pests. The book also has interesting stories and Maybe because I expected a boring read, I found this interesting. On the other hand, the author has his own publication so he knows how to write. He takes the viewpoint that weeds can tell you a lot about your soil if you look. I learned that different types of weeds only grow in specific soils, they also, have their own pests that follow them around. Improving the soil and growing healthy plants is the best prevention to get rid of weeds and pests. The book also has interesting stories and reflections about weeds.

It is geared more towards farmers than backyard gardeners such as myself, but it is entertaining and instructive enough to make it worthwhile reading. I gave this book only 2 stars. I did so not because of the message or content but because of the author's style of writing. I think that author Charles Walters gives useful information in this book, but his prose style, using metaphor and indirect reference to processes and other factors in the soil was difficult to follow. The technical detail was somewhat difficult to follow but I had a much harder time with his overall prose style. Not a book I could warm up to.In spite of all that I actually I gave this book only 2 stars.

I did so not because of the message or content but because of the author's style of writing. I think that author Charles Walters gives useful information in this book, but his prose style, using metaphor and indirect reference to processes and other factors in the soil was difficult to follow.

The technical detail was somewhat difficult to follow but I had a much harder time with his overall prose style. Not a book I could warm up to.In spite of all that I actually did learn a few things.